Table with a view at El Caletón, Garachico (Tenerife)

DSC_0287 DSC_0288 calamares at caleton garachico

Garachico was one of the most important settlements in the Canary island after their ‘conquest’ by 15th century Spanish empire-builders Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand. The island’s most important harbour was at Garachico for over two centuries until the 1706 eruption of the Trevejo volcano put a bit of a downer on the operation by covering it all in molten rock.  C’est la vie.

Thanks to the eruption, however, Garachico has been left with a dramatic seafront of jagged black rock that slowly dips into the sapphire-coloured sea.  One of Tenerife’s best open-air swimming pools is also located right here on the promenade for warmer months, and the town itself is no slouch with a pretty centre of 18th century buildings in traditional Canarian style.  The main square is a lovely place to while away the hottest hours of the day with a cafe sobre hielo (iced coffee) or a cold beer.

After a (frankly harrowing but stunningly beautiful) drive to the mountain village of Masca, we decided to stop in Garachico for lunch (and a beer to settle our shattered nerves).  The Caletón (a traditional chiringuito, a notably Spanish kind of informal seaside restaurant) really does occupy the best spot in town, teetering between the promenade and the sea.  We were later surprised by the reviews on Tripadvisor that touted this place as a tourist trap – in our experience, the waiters were attentive, friendly and knew a LOT about fish.  Yes, prices are a little higher than other places in town but you are in the only restaurant on a beautiful sea front eating exquisite local fish that people have risked their lives to catch for you.  So there. 

 

Our bill 

  • 1 dish of calamares with potatoes and salad – 9€
  • 1 fresh-caught grilled seabream – 10€
  • 2 soft drinks – 3€
  • 1 tea with milk – 2€
  • Total – 24€

Best bits

Unforgettable views to be had while you have lunch, especially when the sea is rough and you can watch the waves pounding the coastline.

Not so sure

We weren’t so sure whether the waiters’ language skills would be enough to face up to the huge influx of tourists seen by this little town in the summer season.  Also, due to its open-air nature, the Caletón is not suitable when it is windy/raining.  Unless you are a masochist and/or British.  In which case, bon appetit.

Un chiringuito en toda regla

More information

  • Restaurante el Caleton
  • Av. Tome Cano 1,
  • Garachico, Tenerife
  • Tel: +34 672 16 99 79
  • Opening Hours: 12 noon to midnight

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